FREE PATTERN! Benjamin Crochet Ragdoll!
You can snag a PDF version here. It's pay-what-you-want, starting at $3, and the PDF version does have a few more pictures for AdDeD vAluE or whatever, also no ads like this dear, sweet blog. PSA: Remember, kids, I can't make free stuff if people don't sometimes also buy stuff. Capitalism is yikes forever! xoxox
Anyway, this is Benjamin, who I've been meaning to make for a while. I made the Mr. Midnight doll from Fran Bow (pattern here) and then I really wanted to make Benjamin from Little Misfortune but it took me forever to get to him. After a bunch of thought, I decided to make a ragdoll version to capture his weird 2D-ness in the game, which is part of the game's charm. I might revisit him and make a fully 3D version a bit later. I have plans to try and get the Galacticat and Parsecpooch patterns from Starfield done before the holidays so people can make them as gifts.
Both of those games are excellent and weird and also excellent (Starfield too, so that's three games, but I'm mostly talking about the little indie masterpieces mentioned first). I strongly recommend checking them out even if you're not a fan of point-and-click and just a fan of weird, or vice versa. Whatevs. Here's the pattern.
It's a pretty easy pattern with nothing too wild, but there is a lot of joining. You should be familiar with running stitch attaching as well as single crochet to make seams. You can join as you go or choose not to and pin everything then attach at the end.
PLEASE READ OVER THE PATTERN BEFORE YOU BEGIN.
Materials and Supplies
• Worsted weight yarn in orange, dark brown, white, light blue (two shades if you want – one for his eyes and one for his bag), and black
o I used a turquoise for his eyes and a teal color for his bag
• Stuffing material
• Size F crochet hook
• Yarn needle
• Stitch marker
• Pins (optional, but recommended for positioning the parts before attaching – I use bobby pins)
• Ch: chain
• Sc: single crochet
• Inc: increase
• Dec: decrease
• St/sts: stitch/stitches
• Rnd/rnds: round/rounds
All rnds are continuous, so a stitch marker is good, but a lot of Benjamin is worked flat in panels.
*Ch 1, turn at the end of each row for all parts worked flat.*
Gauge: approx. 4 sts/in and 4 rows/in. but gauge is not all that important
Finished Benjamin is about 18” tall from top of ear to bottom of foot. You can resize with larger or smaller hooks/yarn.
Total number of sts per row/rnd are noted in parentheses ().
Make 2 of these panels in orange, starting at Bejamin’s bottom. They are worked flat.
Row 1: begin sc in 2nd ch from hook and across (16);
Rows 2-45: sc across (16);
Break off after row 45, set aside.
BELLY + FRONT SIDE OF SNOUT
With white and worked flat, starting at the lower edge.
Row 1: begin sc in 2nd ch from hook and across (8);
Rows 2-3: sc across (8);
Row 4: sc 7, inc in last sc (9);
Row 5-6: sc across (9);
Row 7: inc, sc 8 (10);
Rows 8-25: sc across (10);
At the end of row 25 you should be on the flat edge of the belly piece, now ch 11 and turn;
Row 26: sc in 2nd ch from hook and across (20);
Row 27: dec, sc in remaining (19);
Row 28: sc 17, dec (18);
Row 29: dec, sc 14, dec (16);
Row 30: dec, sc in remaining (15);
Row 31: dec, sc 11, dec (13);
Row 32: dec, sc 9, dec (11);
Row 33: dec, sc 7, dec (9);
Row 34: dec, sc 5, dec (7);
Row 35: dec, sc 3, dec (5);
Row 36: dec, sc 2, dec (3);
Break off with a long tail for joining.
Attach the lower edge of this panel to one of your body panels between row 6 and row 7 of the body. The top should stop after about row 38 of the body panel. Use a running stitch to attach this panel to the body. You don’t need to worry about the outer edges. You can attach it now or wait until later.
BACK OF SNOUT
Benjamin’s snout needs a second panel on the back. Work it flat with white.
Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook (10);
Rows 2-3: sc across (10);
Row 4: sc 8, dec (9);
Row 5: dec, sc in remaining (8);
Row 6: sc 6, dec (7);
Row 7: dec, sc in remaining (6);
Row 8: sc 4, dec (5);
Row 9: dec, sc in remaining (4);
Row 10: sc 2, dec (3);
Row 11: dec, sc (2), break off.
This piece will be attached to the back body panel to line up with the front of the snout, roughly between rows 28 through 39 of the back body panel.
The tail is two identical panels. Start at the base of the tail with orange and work the panels flat.
Row 1: begin sc in 2nd ch from hook and across (10);
Rows 2-5: sc across (10);
Row 6: inc, sc 8, inc (12);
Rows 7-10: sc across (12);
Row 11: inc, sc 10, inc (14);
Rows 12-13: sc across (14);
Row 14: inc, sc 12, inc, (16);
Rows 15-16: sc across (16);
Row 17: inc, sc 14, inc (18);
Rows 18-21: sc across (18);
At the end of row 21, switch to dark brown;
Row 22: sc across (18);
Row 23: dec, sc 14, dec (16);
Row 24: sc across (16);
Row 25: dec, sc 12, dec (14);
Row 26: sc across (14);
Row 27: dec, sc 10, dec (12);
Row 28: dec, sc 8, dec (10);
Row 29: dec, sc 6, dec (8);
Row 30: dec, sc 4, dec (6);
Row 31: dec, sc 2, dec (4);
Row 32: dec 2 (2);
Row 33: dec (1), break off.
If you want, you can go ahead and join the two tail panels together by working sc around the outer edges. You want to switch to brown when you reach the brown portion and then switch back to orange. Work 2 ch in the tail tip for a point. Leave the base of the tail open for stuffing and leave a long tail for attaching to the body panels later. Stuff the tail lightly, if desired, then seam the base of the tail closed with a running stitch.
Make 2. These will be worked in continuous rounds, starting at the bottom of the foot with dark brown.
Rnd 1: ch 2, work 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook (6);
Rnd 2: (sc, inc) x3 (9);
Rnd 3: (sc 2, inc) x3 (12);
Rnds 4-11: sc around (12);
At the end of rnd 11, switch to orange;
Rnds 12-23: sc around (12), break off.
Leave a bit of a tail on one of the legs to attach them to the body panels later. You can also stuff the foot part of the leg if you’d like so it has a little shape.
Make 2, working in continuous rounds and starting at the hand with dark brown.
Rnd 1: ch 2, work 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook (6);
Rnd 2: (sc, inc) x3 (9);
Rnds 3-11: sc around (9);
At the end of rnd 11, switch to orange;
Rnds 12-26: sc around (9);
Break off after rnd 26 and leave a long tail. Do not stuff. Fold the top edge and seam closed with a flat seam.
Make 2 with orange. These are worked in continuous rounds.
Rnd 1: ch 2, work 4 sc in 2nd ch from hook (4);
Rnd 2: (sc, inc) x2 (6);
Rnd 3: (sc 2, inc) x2 (8);
Rnd 4: (sc 3, inc) x2 (10);
Rnd 5: (sc 4, inc) x2 (12);
Rnd 6: sc around (12);
Rnd 7: (sc 5, inc) x2 (14);
Rnds 8-14: sc around (14), break off and leave a long tail. Do not stuff. Fold the piece flat. You don’t need to seam the opening. The ears are going to be tucked between the two body panels.
Make 2, worked in continuous rnds, starting with black for the pupil.
Rnd 1: ch 2, work 7 sc in 2nd ch from hook (7), switch to blue iris color;
Rnd 2: inc around (14), sl in the 1st sc, switch to white but leave a blue tail of several inches, ch 1;
Rnd 3: this won’t actually be a full rnd and this is the only part of this whole pattern that might be confusing – sl into the 2nd st, pull it tight, (sc, inc) x3, sc, sl (11 sts, not counting the ch at the end of rnd 2), break off with a tail.
This shapes the eye! See the pictures, which will hopefully help if you’re a bit confused by that last rnd. Position the eyes on the head as shown. You’ll use blue to stitch down the blue side and white for the white side.
If you want to add and extra bit of detail you can use a small length of white and yard needle to stitch on and eye highlight in each eye.
With black, worked flat.
Row 1: begin sc in 2nd ch from hook and across (4);
Row 2: sc across (4);
Row 3: dec, sc 2 (3), break off with a long tail.
Stitch the nose to the end of the front side of the snout panel just above the first row. The angled top should line up with the angle of the snout and there should be a row of exposed white underneath for Benjamin’s bottom jaw. See image.
The bag is 2 parts – the main pocket and the flap (which is made as all one piece) and the strap. Work all as instructed with your chosen blue color.
MAIN POCKET AND FLAP
Worked in continuous rnds, starting at the bottom.
Rnd 1: ch 2, work 7 sc in 2nd ch from hook (7);
Rnd 2: inc around (14);
Rnd 3: sc around (14);
Rnd 4: (sc, inc) x7 (21);
Rnds 5-11: sc around (21);
At the end of rnd 11, ch 1 and turn, so you can start working flat for the flap.
Rows 1-4: sc 10 (10);
Row 5: dec, sc 6, dec (8), break off with a long enough tail to weave in.
This is just a long flat piece and the ends will be attached to either side of the bag.
Ch 56, leave a long tail;
Row 1: begin sc in 2nd ch from hook and across (55);
Row 2: sc across (55), break off and leave a long tail.
You should have a tail at either end of the strap. Use this to secure the strap to the bag, being mindful not to twist the strap. The ends should be attached on either side about 1 sc down from the opening.
First, attach the belly/snout to one of the body panels with the bottom edge after the 6th row and the top point falling after row 39.
Attach the nose to the end of the snout and stitch on the mouth.
Stitch the mouth on with running stitch, working down from the nose then back up to fill in the gaps. Each stitch should be 1 sc in length.
Attach the back of the snout to the back of body panel so it lines up with the snout on the front. Use a running stitch and orange, overlapping the panels slightly.
Position and sew the eyes into place. The right eye should extend just past the edge of the body and the left eye should be 2 sts from the side edge of the body panel.
Sew the left arm to the front panel at about row 28 and right at the edge of the front panel. Sew the right arm to the back panel also at row 28 at the edge as shown. The right arm needs to be angled slightly.
The ears and legs get sandwiched between the body panels. Pin the ears to either side of the top of the head with the first row covered by the body panels and make sure the pin goes through all the layers. Then use the tails to sew through all the layers with a running stitch. Attach the legs in the same way.
The tail can be attached before now, but I wanted to position it after I attached the legs, and this was a me problem. It needs to be stitched to the back body panel only. See image and work the running stitch to join across the seam at the base as well as a few stitches on the sides to make sure it’s secure.
Now, it’s time to completely join the panels. As you do this, you’ll want to change colors according to the color on the front panel, so you’ll have mostly orange, white along the belly and shout, and a few stitches in black around the nose. I recommend starting your sc joining at a corner. When you reach the ears and legs, work your scs only in the front panel layer, not completely through. AND there is one exception to all of this which is running stitch to join the body panels behind the right eye. Do not work any scs around the right eye.
Pull in all of your tails, give him his bag (I secured it above his right shoulder on the back panel with a few stitches), and you’re done!
You can make and sell finished Benjamin ragdoll plushies but be sure to link back to this pattern and give appropriate credit since I typed it up all nice. Please DO NOT duplicate or resell this pattern. ABSOLUTELY, share the free pattern with all of your friends. A link to my Etsy or Ko-Fi would be greatly appreciated! Also be sure to check out and follow me on Facebook for the latest updates!