Schmanley Cup FREE Crochet Pattern To Make A Very Obvious Knock-Off Non-Functional Stanley Cup

This is mostly a joke pattern…or is it??? I whipped it up pretty quick because I thought it was funny, so if you want to expand upon or improve the pattern then by all means do so! Then share it with me because it will make me lol. You can tag my Facebook page or Instagram @michiarr! I love seeing stuff people make with my dumb patterns!

IMPORTANT: This cup will not keep your drinks hot nor cold. In fact, I strongly suggest that you do not put any liquids in this tumbler. The straw doesn’t work, and the lid doesn’t even come off. I mean, you could make the lid so it does come off if you want to, but still don’t put any liquids in this, please.

Materials and Supplies

·         Worsted weight yarn in desired cup color, plus some gray, and some white
    o   YARDAGE: less than 300 yards of each, way less than 300 of the gray and white
·         Stuffing material
·         Size G crochet hook
·         Yarn needle
·         Pins (optional, but recommended for positioning the parts before attaching – I use bobby pins)
·         Stitch marker because the rounds are continuous

Abbreviations/Skills Needed

·         Ch: chain
·         Sc: single crochet
·         Sl: slip stitch
·         Inc: increase
·         Dec: decrease
·         St/sts: stitch/stitches
·         Rnd/rnds: round/rounds
·         BLO: back loops only
·         FLO: front loops only

There is a small amount of surface crochet.

Whip stitch/running stitch can be used to join the pieces. You can use whichever you prefer that you think looks best. Follow your heart.

NOTE(s): All rnds are continuous, as stated previously, and the total number of sts/rnd and sts/row are noted in parentheses (). BLO/FLO refer to the entire rnd.  

I don’t care for magic circles, so I do not do them, but you can if you want.

I did not do this BUT you can totally cut a circle out of cardboard and put it at the bottom of the cup before stuffing to give it a more stable and flat base, helping it keep its shape when stuffing. You can also wire the handle and/or straw, which I also did not do. These extras will make your Schmanley not good for children.

Gauge: approximately 3 sts/in and 4 rows/in, but gauge isn’t super important unless you care a great deal about how many liters of liquid your Schmanley cup cannot hold

Finished Schmanley cup when worked as patterned with the indicated gauge measures about 12" from bottom to top of straw. Resize using different hooks/yarn. Experiment! Create the Schmanley cup of your dreams!

   

PATTERN

MAIN BODY OF CUP AKA THE CUP PART OF THE CUP

Starting at the bottom of the cup with your cup color.

Rnd 1: ch 2, work 7 sc in 2^nd ch from hook (7);

Rnd 2: inc around (14);

Rnd 3: (sc, inc) x7 (21);

Rnd 4: (inc, sc 2) x7 (28);

            If you want cardboard in the bottom then now is the time to trace your circle. You want it to fit snuggly in the cup when you start working up the sides.

Rnd 5: BLO, sc around (28);

Rnds 6-15: sc around (28);

Rnd 16: FLO, (sc 3, inc) x7 (35);

Rnd 17: sc around (35);

Rnd 18: (sc 6, inc) x5 (40);

Rnd 19: BLO, sc around (40);

            Begin stuffing the base of your cup now. Be careful of stuffing too firmly because it will make your bottom bulge. Continue stuffing as you go.

Rnds 20-39: sc around (40);

            At the end of rnd 39, switch to gray, break off your main color;

Rnds 40-41: sc around (40);

            At the end of rnd 41, switch to white, break off gray;

Rnd 42: BLO, (sc 6, dec) x5 (35);

            The exposed front loops of this row are where you will come back and do surface crochet at the end of this section.

Rnd 43: (sc 3, dec) x7 (28);

Continue stuffing your cup. Be mindful at the part of the cup where it changes shape and do not stuff too firmly. After stuffing and before the hole gets to small you might also consider another cardboard circle at the top to help with the shaping (again, I did not do this).

Rnd 44: (dec, sc 2) x7 (21);

Rnd 45: (sc, dec) x7 (14);

Rnd 46: dec around (7), close and break off.

Rejoin white in the exposed front loops of rnd 42, sc in each around for 2 rnds. 40 sts in each rnd. At the end of the 2^nd rnd, sl in the 1^st st and break off for a nice lid rim to prevent spills.

 

ADVANCED MOIST-LOCK LID DEVICE

This is a flat strip you’re going to stitch right down the middle of your lid as you see fit. With your main color, starting at one of the ends.

Ch 5;

Row 1: begin sc in 2^nd ch from hook and across (4), ch 1, turn;

Rows 2-14: sc across (4), ch 1, turn;

            After row 14, sl around the entire piece for a clean edge. Break off with a long tail for attaching. Attach to the lid as shown. 

THE STRAW

With white, starting at the top of the straw.

Ch 2, work 6 sc in 2^nd ch from hook (6);

Continue working in a spiral until the piece measures your desired straw-length (about 2”), break off with a long tail and then sew toward one end of your advanced moisture lock lid device.

MEGA-ERGONIMICAL HANDLE

This is worked in the rnd around your foundation ch. With your main cup color.

Rnd 1: with a long tail for sewing to the cup later, ch 5, begin sc in 2^nd ch from hook and across, 2 scs in the final ch, rotate the work (do not turn), work sc back up the other side of the ch, sc in what was the 1^st ch that isn’t worked (10);

Rnds 2-33: sc around (10);

After rnd 33, break off with a long tail and flatten the piece. Seam the open end closed with a flat seam that lines up with the starting end. Attach the top of the handle 1 rnd below the gray section and the bottom of the handle about 2 rnds above the exposed front loops of body rnd 19.

If you want to shape the handle so it’s more square and stay that way, but you don’t want to wire it, you can also smush it together and work a few small running stitches with your cup color to secure the corners how you want them.

I thought about making a stupid little logo in a contrasting color and adding some other little accents in that color, but I did not do this because this is a joke pattern, but you can feel free to do so.   

You can make and sell finished Schmanley cups but be sure to link back to this pattern and give appropriate credit. Also, please be sure to specify that your cups are limited edition and price them accordingly. If people are not fighting over them in a battle royale fashion then you’re doing it wrong. Please DO NOT duplicate or resell this pattern.

Happy crocheting from WoollyRhinoCrafts! XOXOXOX

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